| THE TRAMONTANA “Its History and Nature's Art” A practical guide for knowing Tramontana: Her artistic-environmental features Precondition As always, also here we impose a precondition in order to be able to introduce ourselves within this discourse because, given its particular importance, I will distinctly divide it in two instalments. After the brief introduction, for reasons other than my volition, I am now ready to lead you through those natural wonders on this outermost limb of the island (The Tramontana) which is our pride and show off. The many accolades and encouragement that, after the two preceding installments, I received from many parts of the world, stimulates me to continue with this task as much as possible, with the hope to succeed at giving you a clear idea on this merit that, seems to me, is very little known and often underrated in regard to its features and its people. My immediate thoughts and gratefulness goes to Mr. Marco Scandelin who, after his recent travels there, left us his impressions in the July 2002 issue of the Comunita`Chersina which, I am certain, all of us have read with interest and pleasure. Furthermore, this offered to me the possibility of saving a bit of space in reserve for the organizational aspect on how the situation evolved in the course of the last decade. As it is well noted, there in Tramontana, after the exodus of about 95% of her inhabitants, the remaining few (today not more than 40) never resigned nor disbanded themselves. Under the stimulating and illuminating guide of the “Good Shepard” as we know, immediately reacted and got busy to keep high the name and prestige of their native land. Not being able to do it by themselves, they joined some foreign tourist who, while passing by, were fascinated by the incomparable variegated beauty of this locale, so that they reserved it as their place for summer vacations in order to get acquainted better with her. And this is how was born the society with the emblematic logo “EKO-CENTRO CAPUT INSULAE”, whose single scope is to defend and increase the awareness of this territory. For ten years now, with an admirable passion, they have used al their resources to sensitize and involve an ever increasing number of visitors and sympathizers. But now we come to the crux of our presentation. The natural environment To whomever - at the fork on the road, around mount Syss, begins the road which runs alongside the Qarnerolo sea (on the eastern side of the island) and by the area of S, Pietro, we adventure along the remains of the old pavement – at a certain point, suddenly appears a rare spectacle. On our right, among the greenery, a small hill with a cluster of houses: the Roman Caput Insulae which then, as years passed, was for a long time Caisole, today’s Beli. In front, the old solid bridge of the 1st century A.D.,12 meters high and 8 meters long, joins the banks of small Potok canyon where “after it rains, the water joins Vir’s natural springs water, producing a swollen torrent which often reaches the rim on the bridge’s parapets. The bridge’s arc dimensions are 6.60 x 4.70 meters. Is built of local regular square stone blocks bound by an almost invisible line of mortar. Today here, on the Adriatic’s oriental coast, it is the only well conserved Roman bridge. To the occasional visitor give a welcome as: “ Dear pilgrim, may your wiseness light your way and your heart, may this beauty tell you the truth…Rise to visit this singularly natural beauty. In this enchanted old forest seek the solution to the eternal mystery and let the wind guide you to its source. When your thoughts may cause you to look up let your eyes follow the flight of the vulture (grifone) and nature will purify your spirit, you will revisit the property of these hidden places and will find the treasures hidden deep within you”. An insert on the road sign, amply visible on the other side, indicates the road climbs to the plains of Poiana which, dominated by a century old elm tree, forks to three locations which I will present separately. The art The first road on the right, with its paving stones, smoothly worn by our ancestors use, sided by walls built in antiquity, leads you to the summit of the village where, between the linden and a tall cypress, opens the passage which leads to the steps of the Church, its belfry, and its adjacent former chapel now a museum. In it found refuge the Lion of Saint Mark (Leone di San Marco) which, in our pre-war years, a group of courageous young men saved from certain destruction; following to the town square (piazza) with its ever-present water well, the beautiful vista embraces the blue Quarnerolo sea from Smergo (Merag) to Fiume (Rijeka), the loggia, with its lateral entrance, in form of a Greek cross where, at its center, hangs a sparkling candelabra with a dozen arms which lights up all its interior, including the two lateral chapels, Looking over the small altars in these chapels, on one is a statue of the Black Madonna, on the other is the Patron Saint Anthony Abate (Sant’Antonio Abate), by an unknown author. At the back of the abside of the principal altar one can admire “The Presentation of our Lord at the Temple (la Presentazione del Signore al Tempio)” by the dignified Venier Trevisan. At the end, at the principal exit, by marbled holywater well, is the wooden staircase leading to the choir, with the manually pumped air bellow powering the organ. Here I beg you to excuse me if, for lack of time I was not able to adequately illustrate the remainder of these two area, which are tightly tied to each other, I am obliged to leave them for the next number, Thank you ! Domenico Bon |
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